Hangzhou for First Timers: West Lake, Tea & Old Streets

Short answer: Do Hangzhou slowly, and let West Lake set the pace. Walk or cycle part of the lake, take a short boat ride, visit Lingyin Temple in the morning, and spend an afternoon tasting tea in a Longjing village. Stay near the lake or near a central metro station, so you can walk to the water in the evening without a long ride back. Do not try to add West Lake, Lingyin Temple, a tea village, Hefang Street, and a day trip to Wuzhen or Suzhou into the same day — Hangzhou rewards unhurried mornings and lakeside evenings, and a crammed plan will make you miss exactly what the city is good at.

Last updated: October 2026. Prices, opening hours and booking rules change — check the official or venue page for your date. Real-device screenshots will be added later; this guide is text-only for now.

Hangzhou at a glance

West Lake: walking, cycling, and a short boat ride

West Lake, known in Chinese as Xihu, is not one sight but a whole landscape of causeways, bridges, gardens, and viewpoints, and the best way to understand it is to walk a section rather than trying to circle the whole lake in one go. The lake is large, and a full loop on foot is a long day, so pick one causeway and one lakeside garden for your first visit. The Bai Causeway and the Su Causeway are the classic walks, with willows, bridges, and views back across the water, and both are best in the early morning or late afternoon, when the light is softer and the crowds are thinner.

Cycling is a good alternative if you are comfortable on a bike, and shared bikes are widely available around the lake. Keep to the lakeside paths, watch for pedestrians, and do not cycle on crowded footbridges. A short boat ride is worth it once, especially if you want to see the lake from the water without a long walk. Boats typically run from piers around the lake, and the ride is usually well under an hour for a short route. Check the official pier or booking page for current routes and ticket types before you go, as routes and prices can change by season, and avoid the longest cruise on a first visit — it repeats much of what you can already see from the shore.

The Ten Scenes of West Lake are a traditional set of views, not a checklist you must complete. Think of them as a way to notice what makes the lake special: a bridge in mist, a pavilion at sunset, autumn moonlight, or spring blossom, depending on the season. Pick two or three that match your visit — for example, a causeway walk, a garden, and a sunset viewpoint — and let the rest go. A common mistake is treating the Ten Scenes as ten separate tickets to buy in one day. Most are views and walks, not separate attractions, so plan by area and by light, not by counting scenes.

Lingyin Temple and Feilai Feng

Lingyin Temple, also called the Temple of Soul’s Retreat, sits in a wooded valley west of the lake, and it is Hangzhou’s most important temple visit. Take a taxi, ride-hailing car, or bus from the lake area, and allow at least half a day for the trip, including the walk in. Go in the morning, when the temple is quieter and cooler, and wear comfortable shoes, as the site involves steps and wooded paths. Check the official page for current ticket and booking rules before you go, as temple and scenic-area entry can be arranged separately, and rules can change.

Feilai Feng, the Peak that Flew Here, is the cliff area just before the temple, with stone carvings cut into the rock. Walk slowly through this area rather than rushing straight to the main halls, and look for the carvings in the cliffs and grottoes. Inside Lingyin Temple, the large halls are impressive, but the quieter side halls and courtyards are often more memorable. Do not expect a silent museum: this is a working temple, so be respectful, keep your voice low, follow signs about photography, and do not touch carvings or offerings. If you are short on time, skip a second temple in the same day and keep Lingyin as your one temple visit.

Longjing tea villages and tea tasting

Longjing, or Dragon Well, tea is Hangzhou’s most famous product, and the villages south-west of the lake are the best place to understand it. Longjing village itself, and nearby tea-growing villages in the hills, have tea houses, small shops, and terraced fields, and they are reached by taxi or ride-hailing car from the lake area, as public transport is less direct. Go in the morning, when the villages are quieter, and allow a relaxed half-day, including the ride there and back.

For a first tasting, choose a tea house that lets you sit, smell, and taste before you buy, and ask for a small pot of Longjing rather than the most expensive grade on the menu. Good Longjing should taste fresh, light, and slightly nutty, not bitter or stale. A common mistake is buying a large quantity of tea in the first shop you enter, especially after a high-pressure tasting. Taste in one or two places, compare, buy a small amount first, and check that the tea is sealed properly for travel. If you want to buy tea as a gift, ask the shop to pack it for luggage, and keep it away from strong smells and moisture on the way home.

Lakeside walks, Hefang Street, and Qinghefang

The lakeside itself, around Hubin and the southern shore, is worth an evening on its own. Walk the promenade after dinner, watch the lights on the water, and stop at a lakeside cafe rather than trying to fit another sight into the evening. The area near the lake is busy at weekends, so if you want a quieter walk, go early in the morning or on a weekday evening, and use the smaller paths away from the main promenade.

Hefang Street, in the Qinghefang old-street area south of the lake, is Hangzhou’s best-known old shopping street. It has traditional shopfronts, snack stalls, tea shops, and small museums, and it is best as a stroll, not as a serious shopping trip. Go for snacks, tea, and people-watching, and expect crowds, especially in the afternoon and at weekends. A common mistake is treating Hefang Street as an authentic old neighbourhood throughout. The main street is commercial and rebuilt in places, so enjoy it for what it is, then step into a side lane for a quieter look at old houses and local life. Keep your bag in front of you in crowds, check prices before ordering in tourist stalls, and use a translation app for menus without pictures.

Hangzhou food for first-timers

Hangzhou food is lighter and sweeter than the food in many other Chinese cities, and it is a good introduction to southern Chinese cooking. Three dishes are worth trying on a first visit, in general terms, without chasing a single famous restaurant. Dongpo pork is slow-braised pork, rich and soft, usually served in a small pot. Beggar’s chicken is a whole chicken baked in clay, traditionally opened at the table, and best shared. Longjing shrimp is shrimp cooked with Longjing tea leaves, light and fragrant, and a good example of how tea is used in Hangzhou cooking beyond drinking.

For everyday eating, try a local restaurant near your hotel or near the lake, order a few dishes to share, and use a translation app for menus. If you have allergies or dietary needs, show the key words in Chinese characters, and do not assume a dish is vegetarian because it looks plain. For payment and ordering basics, it helps to read a food-ordering guide before you arrive. Avoid restaurants with only photos and no prices in tourist areas, eat where locals queue, and keep meals simple in summer heat. A lakeside restaurant is fine for one evening view, but the best food is often a short walk away from the main tourist promenade.

Arriving in Hangzhou

Fly into Hangzhou Xiaoshan International Airport (HGH). It is Hangzhou’s airport, serving both domestic and international flights. Terminal 4 is the main current terminal for most flights; follow the signs for your terminal inside the airport rather than assuming all flights use the same building.

Yes, the airport connects directly to the metro, and Line 19 is the fastest option. Metro Lines 1, 7 and 19 all serve Xiaoshan International Airport station. Line 19, the express line, reaches Hangzhou East Railway Station in about 20-30 minutes and continues to West Lake Cultural Square, which is useful for the West Lake area. Line 1 also runs from the airport through Hangzhou East and on to Longxiangqiao and Chengzhan, near the West Lake’s southern end, but it stops more often, so allow about 45-60 minutes to the West Lake area on Line 1. Check the last train on the station display on the day — Line 19’s last trains leave earlier than many late arrivals expect, and an airport bus or DiDi is the fallback after that.

High-speed rail: Hangzhou East is the main station. Hangzhou East (Hangzhoudong) is served by metro Lines 1, 4, 6 and 19 and handles most long-distance trains, including Shanghai services in about an hour. Hangzhou West, on Lines 3 and 19, serves other routes and is useful for the western side of the city and Xixi Wetland, while Hangzhou South and Chengzhan (the older central station, on Line 1 and Line 5) serve other trains. As ever, go by the station name on your ticket — Hangzhou East, Hangzhou West, Hangzhou South and Chengzhan are different stations.

Getting around: metro, Hangzhou East, and Xiaoshan Airport

Hangzhou’s metro is clean, modern, and easy for first-timers, with English signs and station names. It is best for longer hops across the city, for Hangzhou East station, and for the airport area, while walking and cycling are better around the lake itself. You can usually pay with a transport card, a QR code in a payment app, or a single-journey ticket from a machine. Save your station and hotel names in Chinese characters on your phone, and allow extra time when changing lines in large stations.

Hangzhou East is the city’s main high-speed rail station, east of the centre, and it is large and busy. Check your train, platform, and entrance in advance, arrive early, and do not leave ticket collection or station entry to the last minute. Xiaoshan International Airport is south-east of the city and is reached by metro, airport bus, and taxi. Allow plenty of time, especially in rain or rush hour, and check your terminal before you leave your hotel. For train booking steps in general, it helps to read a train-ticket guide before your travel day, and for city transport basics, a city-transport guide covers metro, ride-hailing, and taxis in more detail.

Day trips from Hangzhou: Wuzhen and Suzhou

Hangzhou is a good base for two classic day trips, but treat them as one trip each, not as add-ons to a lake day. Wuzhen, a water town south-west of Hangzhou, is known for canals, old houses, and bridges, and it is best as a full, slow day, with an early start and a return in the evening. Check current ticket and booking rules for the scenic area before you go, as water towns often have separate east and west sections with different entry arrangements, and do not try to see both sections in a rush.

Suzhou, north of Hangzhou, is known for classical gardens, canals, and silk, and it is also a full day by high-speed train. Pick one or two gardens, walk one canal street, and leave the rest for another visit, rather than trying to see every famous garden in a day. Both day trips are easier if you have already set up payment, connectivity, and ride-hailing in Hangzhou, and if you save your return train or bus details before you leave in the morning. If you only have two days in total, skip a day trip and keep both days in Hangzhou — the lake, temple, and tea villages are enough on their own.

A sensible 2-3 day Hangzhou plan

Day 1 — West Lake and the old street: Morning walk on a causeway and in a lakeside garden, with a short boat ride if the weather is clear. Afternoon in Hefang Street and Qinghefang for snacks and tea, and evening on the lakeside promenade. This keeps all the walking in one area and avoids crossing the city twice.

Day 2 — Temple and tea: Morning at Lingyin Temple and Feilai Feng, with an early start. Afternoon in a Longjing tea village for tasting and a walk among the fields, with an early dinner near the lake. This is the most tiring day, so keep the evening light.

Day 3 — A slower lake day, or a day trip: Either a second lakeside walk, a garden you missed, and a long lunch, or a full day trip to Wuzhen or Suzhou, with an early start and a return in the evening. If you only have two days, drop Day 3 and move the tea village to the afternoon of Day 1 or Day 2, but do not add a day trip on top of a temple and tea day.

Practical tips and scams to avoid

Hangzhou’s seasons change the trip more than many first-timers expect. Spring is usually the most beautiful, with blossom around the lake, but it can be busy and rainy. Summer is hot, humid, and prone to sudden rain, so carry water, a small umbrella, and sun protection, and plan indoor sights for the middle of the day. Autumn is often the most comfortable, with clearer skies and cooler evenings. Winter is quieter and colder than many visitors expect, especially by the water, so pack a warm layer and check the forecast for your dates.

Be polite but firm with unsolicited guides, unusually cheap tours, and anyone offering a special tea tasting that turns into a high-pressure sale. Use metered taxis or ride-hailing, agree on your destination in Chinese characters, and avoid unlicensed cars at the airport and Hangzhou East. Check prices before ordering in tourist areas, keep small cash separate from large notes, and keep your passport and hotel address in Chinese characters on your phone. For general safety basics in any large Chinese city, a safety guide covers scams, pickpockets, and emergency numbers in more detail, and for money basics, a money guide covers cash, cards, and ATMs.

Frequently asked questions

How many days do I need in Hangzhou?

Two full days covers West Lake, Lingyin Temple, and one tea village. Three days is better if you also want a slower lakeside day or a day trip to Wuzhen or Suzhou without rushing.

Should I stay near West Lake or near the station?

Near West Lake for a first visit, if your budget allows, because you can walk to the water in the evening. Near a central metro station is also practical, especially if you have an early train from Hangzhou East or a flight from Xiaoshan.

Do I need to walk the whole lake?

No. A full loop is a long day. Walk one causeway and one garden, take a short boat ride if you like, and enjoy the lake in sections rather than trying to complete it.

Is Hangzhou easy without Chinese?

Yes, for a first trip, with limits. Metro signs, larger restaurants, and major sights have English, but small tea houses, old-street stalls, and village shops need a translation app. Learn a few polite phrases, but do not worry about speaking perfect Mandarin.

When is the best time to visit Hangzhou?

Spring and autumn are usually the most comfortable, with blossom in spring and clearer skies in autumn. Summer is hot and rainy, and winter is quieter but colder by the lake, so check the forecast and pack for rain and for a warm layer.